Camino Day 12: Astorga to Ponferrada

20.5 miles, 2,700’ gain, 3,900’ loss, 9:30

Mind/Body/Spirit

Today was up and over a small mountain.

While it was overcast and misty going up, it started to rain at the summit and on the way down. I stopped at this eclectic donation-based shop that is run by the Knights Templar to warm up. I received cool tea and a warm soul. There were beautiful views coming down the mountain.

I walked with a lot of people during the second half of the day. I met Dillon from Massachusetts who was ‘going as slow as possible’. He had been traveling in Europe (London, …) and found it very expensive. He just heard of Camino and that it was much cheaper, so now he’s walking it. Hana from Walnut Creek and Philippe from Spain joined us for an adhoc picnic at a random table that had been set up along the Camino. Philippe has worked in the telecommunications industry and will see if Vigilent might be a place to apply for a job.

The end of the day felt like a slog for the first time. It was through the suburbs of Ponferrada and mainly along roads. My left foot tendon was sore at the end of the day. I was probably overcompensating for the right foot coming down the hill.

The first hostel I tried was full, but I found another one near the old part of town. The hostel was ultra modern, including such amenities as a dehumidifier in the laundry room, so my clothes dried overnight! It was hot at night – all that body heat trapped in the room and someone shut the window to keep out the city noise. I don’t know if it was me, the building, or the other people, but I barely talked to anyone at the hostel. In these modern facilities, do I revert to my natural tendency of inward focus? How can I keep a smile on my face, and a sense of openness to other people that is either visible or felt by others? I’ve met some people that introduce themselves as soon as someone new walks into a hotel room. Can I try to do the same throughout the Camino and afterwards?

Ever wonder what it looks like to eat dinner at 8pm in Spain? Wonder no more!

When I left before 10pm, the restaurant was starting to fill up. I did have a great meal. It was a nice change from the typical Camino food.